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I currently weave on two different looms. One is a 22" wide LeClerc Minerva, 4 harness jack style loom. The other is a 45" wide LeClerc Colonial loom, 8 harness that I have converted to countermarche. I use a simple warping board to measure the warp. There are many different tools for weaving and measuring warp. For me, the simpliest has not failed me yet, so that's how I weave.
Planning The first step in weaving is the planning. I enjoy the math that is involved to take a set pattern and a particular size thread and figure how to obtain a finished textile in the size that is needed. Planning also includes understanding how different yarns will behave on the loom and in the finishing process. Without this planning, you may weave a scarf that is so stiff that is only suitable as a table runner, or a placemat that would be better served as a handtowel. Measuring the Warp Next step is to measure all the warp threads for the project. The warp is the yarn that is threaded and tied onto the loom. A project will have a certain number of threads within an inch of the textile. This is known as EPI (ends per inch). The higher the number, the finer the thread. This number is used to calculate the quantity of threads that will need to be counted on the warping board. For example if the EPI is 20 and the textile is 12" wide, you'll need 240 ends. The length of the warp is determined by the length of the finished textile with an allowance for shrinkage and loom waste.  Measuring warp on a warping board. Threading the loom Now that the warp is all measured, it's time to put it on the loom.
There are many ways to "dress" the loom. I've learned a few, and have a current favorite that works for
me. I start by threading the reed. The reed holds the yarn at the predetermined EPI. Next, I thread the
heddles. The heddles serve to attach the yarn to the harness. The threading sequence of the heddles is one of the factors
that determines the textile's pattern. Next, I tie the warp onto the back beam of the loom. Now it's time
to wind the warp onto the back beam. It is important to have the warp threads wind on with an even tension. I
use a tensioning jig to help with this step. Now it's time to tie the warp onto the front beam. The last step
is to tie the treadles (foot pedals) to the harnesses where the heddles are. This is another factor that determines
the pattern.
Weaving Now it's time to weave. The weft thread is wound onto a bobbin within the shuttle.
A treadle is depressed and the warp threads separate so that the shuttle can be passed through. The sequence in which the
treadles are depressed is the last factor in determining the pattern. Now it's time for self-discipline or meditation,
depending on how you look at it, as the treadles are depressed and the shuttle is thrown over and over and over and over.... Finishing Woven textiles are not finished when they come off the loom. Yarn is treated during its production
to aid in the spinning or weaving process. These treatments need to be removed so that the true color and nature of
the yarn is obtained. It is during the finishing process that the pattern's structure becomes visible as the tension
on the yarns has been removed, and the yarns shift into their desired position. The type of finishing depends on the fiber
used and the use of the textile. Finishing includes washing,
drying, ironing and/or putting the textile through a mangle. Proper
finishing is an art in and of itself. The warp ends also must be finished as tied fringe or hemmed. |
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